Thursday, 16 August 2018

Review of Knitting Magazine's British Knits Special

Image courts of Knitting magazine
September 2018's edition of Knitting magazine is dedicated to knits grown, designed and made in Britain. As soon as I saw on the newsagent's shelf that it features 25 British knits I knew it was one to review for A Woolly Yarn readers.

The issue costs £5.99 and, unlike other UK knitting magazines, doesn't come bagged with free gifts. The benefit of this is that you can flick through before you buy to see if there are patterns that interest you.

The front of the magazine contains editorial; news (including a fun story about thrill-seeking pensioners leaving crafts to the millennial); details of knitting events; an interview with Allison Thistlewood and Rachel Brown who run the Great London Yarn Crawl; a feature on a fleece community project in Uist (there's a pattern that uses this yarn in the issue); book reviews and a yarn review which, strangely for this British issue, contains a tape yarn from Bergere De France.

Most of the rest of the magazine is dedicated to full-page beautifully-photographed pictures of the issue's garments and accessories and the patterns themselves. It does feel a little counter-intuitive that the patterns are separate from the glossy photos of them but that's been the style of the magazine for a long time.

The cover design, a roll-neck jumper called Rowley by Jacinta Bowie, knitted in Three Bears Yarn Bluefaced Leicester, is an eye-catcher for the colder nights that will be drawing in soon in the UK.

When doing some research for the previous post on this blog, New Season = New Yarns, I came across Moel View Yarn, whose homepage at the time of my browsing featured the fancy-yoked sweater Gwanwyn by Verena Cohrs, knitted using the company's Welsh Mule DK. From all the patterns in the British issue is my personal favourite, but I think I'd choose the Madder Pink Bright shade for a little more colour oomph.

Gwanwyn image courtesy of Moe View Yarn
Sadly I can't show you pictures of nearly all the other patterns because they're not on Ravelry or Knitting's website.  Instead I'll describe them and the British yarn they use:

Kildwick by Sarah Hatton is a classic elbow-length sleeve grey knitted jumper with some lace detailing. It's knitted with West Yorkshire Spinners' Illustrious Naturals.
Illustrious Naturals image courtesy of West Yorkshire Spinners

Shaped Hem Jumper by Jo Allport has a stocking stitch body with cabled long sleeves. Baa ram ewe's Winterburn DK in the earthy shade Muck is the yarn used.
Winterburn DK image courtesy of baa ram ewe
Devon Mariner by Helena Timms is a cute burnt orange fisherman's rib hat knitted in John Arbon Textiles' Devonia DK. In the magazine's photograph it looks rather like it has cats' ears!

Devonia DK image courtesy of John Arbon Textiles
Harper by Emma Wright is a contemporary twist on a cabled jumper. There's an inverted v-shape opening at the front that shows off the model's belly button - not great for snowy days! The yarn used is Erika Knight's British Blue 100% Bluefaced Leicester.

Erika Knight British Blue 100 image courtesy of Erika Knight
Elemental by Christine Boggis uses a combination of grey natural colours from Uist Wool. It's a wrap that looks like an oversized cowl to keep you warm on Winter days.

Sith DK image courtesy of Uist Wool
Helga by Bronagh Miskelly is a throw-on buttonless cardigan for cooler evenings.  The opening edges have a pretty cable design and the cardigan is knitted using Purl Alpaca Designs Alpaca Mist Fine.

Mist image courtesy of Purl Alpaca Designs
Wensleydale by Sarah Hazell is knitted in Wensleydale Longwool Sheep Shop Aran. It's a grey, very long scarf with an opening that can be used as an arm or neck hole. 

Aran image courtesy of Wensleydale Longwool Sheep Shop
Textured Scarf by Toft is a pattern that's already on Toft's website. The cream scarf has funky pom poms at the end and is knitted in Toft DK.

Textured scarf image courtesy of Toft


Blousey by Francesca Hughes is a v-necked buttoned-up cardigan knitted in a British wool blend hand-dyed by US indie dyer Emily Foden and sold as Viola Shadow DK. I couldn't find the yarn for sale on Viola and the Moon's website but there is a picture of it on Ravelry.

Vila Shadow DK image courtesy of Viola and the Moon and Ravelry
Ella is a design from LoveKnitting brand Willow & Lark.  It's a cropped jumper with the back a little longer than the front, and is Knitted with their Plume yarn. It's not stated where the mohair and silk for the yarn blend were sourced.

Ella image courtesy of Willow & Lark and Ravelry
Staithes by Pat Mencini is knitted in King Cole's Majestic DK, a blend of wool, acrylic and polyamide. It's a light grey gansey-inspired textured jumper.

King Cole Majestic DK image courtesy of Knitwell Wools Ltd
Elody by Jo Allport is a fine lace hat knitted using Yarntelier's Cashmere Gilli in the shade Malkin. 

Malkin image courtesy of Yarntelier
Swagger by Pat Menchini is a grey, cabled short sleeve jacket knitted using Rico Creative Soft Wool Aran in beige. 

Rico Creative Soft Wool Aran in beige image courtesy of thecraftyknitter.co.uk
Plus there are:

  • A pair of cream socks knitted with West Yorkshire Spinners' Fleece UK
  • Stylecraft super chunky floor cushion
  • Two jumpers for men
  • A Martin Storey cable boy's jumper
  • Red and white heart cardigan for a little girl
  • Royal Romper suits
  • Puppy Pillow Pal cushion.
I'm impressed with the breadth of yarn and price points featured in this issue, with well-known brands sitting alongside small British yarn businesses you may not have heard of. A mention in the magazine is a great opportunity fir them to reach a wider audience. Some of the cheaper yarns though, may be from a British brand, but are man-made or don't contain British wool. 

The features are interesting to read and useful - particularly the tip on how to knit jogless stripes in the round. 

All in all it's great to see an international magazine championing British wool and designers. 

Friday, 10 August 2018

New Season = New Yarns

Although we've yet to reach the middle of August, yarn stores and wool companies work seasons ahead. Details of their lovely new Autumn/Winter woolly offerings to tempt us have been trickling out, with some already launched and others in the pipeline.  Here's what A Woolly Yarn has learned so far, although as yet we haven't managed to get our hands on samples for the all-important review and squish test!

West Yorkshire Spinners

In 2017 WYS launched their 100% Shetland wool line The Croft Shetland Tweed. Especially for the Autumn/Winter 2018 season on August 6th the company introduced The Croft Shetland Tweed Aran colours accompanied by a pattern book designed by Sarah Hatton.
Image courtesy of West Yorkshire Spinners
There are 12 colours in the range and each 100g hank costs £8.50 plus P&P.

Rowan

It's Rowan's 40th birthday this year and to mark their ruby anniversary the company is introducing ruby red shades throughout their yarn range. There are two new yarns for the Autumn/Winter season and both are available now: Alpaca Classic, a mixture of 57% Alpaca and 43% Cotton
Alpaca Classic image courtesy of Rowan


and Limited Edition Cosy Merino, comprising 73% wool, 15% cashmere, 7% yak and 5% nylon.
Cosy Merino image courtesy of Rowan

Baa Baa Brighouse

Especially for Autumn the West Yorkshire yarn store/indie dyer has brought out the Dales Collection.   This DK Yorkshire-spun yarn has seven colours, each given the name - you've guessed it - of a Yorkshire Dale.

Image courtesy of Baa Baa Brighouse
The collection is already on sale. Each 100g skein costs £16 plus P&P.

baa ram ewe

This Leeds-based company has announced that on August 16th it'll be launching it's newest Yorkshire yarn - Winterburn Aran.

Winterburn Aran image courtesy of baa ram ewe

Baa ram ewe says "we've picked 10 of our favourite shades to start with: Brass Band, Viking, Wesley Bob, Goathland, Aire, Lotherton, Endeavour, Yorkstone, Muck an Coal - another classic palette which all combine so well together".

Susan Crawford Vintage


Crawford has spent the summer revamping her own 100% British wool Excelana brand, which complements her vintage patterns. Expect lots of new colours when it launches at the end of September.

Blacker Yarns


This Cornish company likes to tantalise customers each year with a special limited-edition yarn to celebrate their birthday in September. Their latest e-newsletter has revealed that 2018's yarn will be "a worsted/light aran weight and very local to us both in terms of inspiration and fibre sourcing".

Last year's birthday yarn was Blacker Brushwork, which quickly sold out. Will this year's mystery yarn be as popular?

Erika Knight


Rumour has it that Knight will launch an aran weight yarn in eight heathered colours. Wild Wool will be a blend of soft wool and natural nettle.

Marie Wallin


On her website Wallin says that she will unveil her new British Breeds yarn range at Yarndale on 29th and 30th September. It will be supported by a pattern collection called Wildwood.

Northern Yarn


We've got an exclusive interview lined up with Kate, owner of Lancaster-based Northern Yarn. Her Lancastrian Poll Dorset yarn is currently being spun at the mill and will be available very soon. Price TBC.

13th August Update

Triskelion Yarn

Scylfing Sock yarn is Triskelion's latest offering, available in 18 shades from today!

Image courtesy of Triskelion
Says Triskelion, "Scylfing Sock is a blend of 50% Bluefaced Leicester, 25% Gotland and 25% Wensleydale. The fibre is from British sources, non-superwash, and the yarn is spun by Laxtons in Yorkshire."

Each 100g skein costs £18 plus P&P.

Ewe & Ply

Want a yarn made from Shropshire fleeces? Ewe & Ply's new Shropshire Ply 2018 DK is a blend of 34% Welsh mule, 28% Shropshire, 20% Sherino (Shetland and merino), and 18% Bluefaced Leicester.
Image courtesy of Ewe & Ply

The yarn comes in eight colours and each 50g hank costs £6 plus P&P.

Do you know about any new season British yarn launches we haven't covered? Please tell us via the comments section below or on our Facebook page.

Monday, 6 August 2018

Review of Marie Wallin's Bloomsbury Collection

Image courtesy of Marie Wallin
New jumper and cardigan patterns from Marie Wallin make me long for colder weather, not only to knit them up (it's a bit too hot in the current English scorching weather to knit with wool) but also wear these gorgeous creations.

The photography in Wallin's pattern books always gives me serious lifestyle envy and Bloomsbury, shot at Stoneywell Arts and Crafts Cottage in Leicestershire, is no different. The vintage setting is an ideal backdrop to the garments whose designs were inspired by the Bloomsbury group of artists and writers who defined a new era in art and literature at the turn of the twentieth century.

The jumper on the front cover, Dora, really drew me into the collection. I cheered to see that this pattern, classed by Wallin as of intermediate difficulty, looks 'doable' for knitters like me with only a small amount of stranded colour work experience. I've admired many of Wallin's patterns in the past, and the high quality production values of the printed versions have made them great coffee table books for browsing, but the complicated
Vanessa image courtesy of Marie Wallin
colour work patterns rather daunting to knit for those with only a little practice with the skill.

In fact Bloomsbury, Wallin's ninth collection as an independent designer since she left Rowan, has a good balance of classic designs both for Fair Isle novices and aficionados. When my colour work skills are up to standard I'd love to knit Vanessa, an intricately and delicately patterned cardigan with on-trend bracelet sleeves that is both classic but on-trend for Autumn 2018. (As an aside I recently received an email from fashion brand Toast informing me that Fair Isle jumpers are key pieces for the forthcoming season. No disrespect to Toast but Wallin's Fair Isle designs from Bloomsbury and her Shetland collection are far more attractive than their jumpers and the cost of the wool to knit them is cheaper than Toast's ready-to-wear price).

One drawback I've noticed before with Wallin's books, tiny black and white cable and Fair Isle charts, looks to have been rectified. In Bloomsbury she writes that the small, quite difficult to read charts are due to printing restrictions. If you've bought a paper copy only you can email Wallin to request a PDF version too and then print out the charts at your desired magnitude.

Here are the other six patterns in Bloomsbury:

Angelica: a stranded colourwork sweater in two colours with a relatively cropped body and no waist shaping.
Image courtesy of Marie Wallin
Frances: a pretty one-colour cardigan knitted in the shade Duck Egg. Involves steeking.

Image courtesy of Marie Wallin
Virginia: a traditional long-length cardigan shape in autumnal hues.

Image courtesy of Marie Wallin
Lydia: a short sleeve pullover with intricate patterns.

Image courtesy of Marie Wallin
Vita: one-shade loose-fitted jumper with detailed cabling. The yarn used is the shade Clay.


Rosamund: unfitted jumper knitted in the shade Avacado and using cabling patterns.

Image courtesy of Marie Wallin

Yarn: All the patterns use Rowan's Felted Tweed. This blend of 50% merino wool, 25% alpaca and 25% viscose comes in a whopping 39 shades - note though that the yarn does not say it's made from British wool. A quick search of online knitting stores showed that each 50g ball costs between £6.90 and £7.60 plus P&P depending on the stockist and whether they have any discounts running when you buy.

Unfortunately sometimes a few errors slip through the proofreading process. Wallin has an errata page on her website listing those that have been discovered in Bloomsbury - currently in Frances, Vita, Vanessa and Anglica (scroll down to the bottom of the page). The corrected charts can be printed off.

Buy Bloomsbury directly from Marie Wallin's website for £14.99 plus P&P. Do let me know in the comments below or on A Woolly Yarn's Facebook page which of the pattern's you'd like to cast on first.

For a trip down memory lane back to Marie Wallin's older pattern collections see:

Stop Press!

I'm gathering information about some very exciting new British yarn launches for the Autumn/Winter 2018/19 season. Watch this space and follow A Woolly Yarn on Facebook in readiness for the big reveal!
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